Lowering Daytona 5.7

Just caught up on this thread, wondering what type of bushes you ordered, do they have the off center bush bolt hole, that pivots the top of the wheel out or in.

 

Bushes are exactly what I pictured, Good choice. The spec sheets posted by Green Goblin are generic and indicate Max tolerance before adjustment. This post may get long but reflects the actual alignment procedure in plant. Operation performed after vehicles have been Rolled.
Tram Operation ( alignment ) Rear axles come into plant as an assembly module and specs are set from supplier TRW per. Chrysler engineering standards.
The Geometry of the whole parts of any assembly are what dictates the total allowable specs for vehicle drivability Tracking and stability.
Since you have changed the springs only, thereby lowering the vehicle stance you have altered the Geometry. which you are about to correct.

Rear Camber - should be negative - 0.4 to -0.8 leaning in slightly at top of wheels. Chrysler specs allow as much as 0.0 to - 1.0 never positive because in a curve the car will tend to slide out
Both sides should be as close as possible to each other splitting total camber between the wheels.

Rear Caster - is the positioning of the axle between the fenders, both tires should be equal distance from front of wheel well lip as well as centered side to side. otherwise the vehicle will dog track sideways which will greatly affect front end alignment. and Drive shaft rotation

Rear toe - is the distance in front of wheel to chassis and rear of wheel to chassis which should be equal. if either wheel in toed out or in the fix is to position a shim between the bearing mounting plate and the dust shield at the corner bolt. these shims are measured in thousand's are square with a slotted hole to slip between the parts over the bolt. Can be purchased from Dealer.

Do not assume just because the axle is fixed to the chassis mounting plates in the sub frame that it is square to the chassis after being altered. When I replaced all my bushes my left wheel was closer to the front than my right rear wheel Be safe and check it !!!

After you get the rear axle set do the same with the front struts
Camber again Negative -0.4 to -0.8
Caster should be equal both sides depends on "A" arm asssemblies distance from Rack.
Toe should be as close to Zero 0 as possible for best steering results. Negative is toed in positive is toed out. A lot of shops say 1.5 either way is OK. IT IS NOT Demand Zero or go elsewhere.

Make sure steering wheel gets centered, this is also controlled by surprise Camber.

Chrysler in plant specs are set through computor programs that cannot be altered or buy passed and any reading over - 1.0 or anything positive is a failure and car is sent for axle movement or front strut change. Machine Buy Off only.

Once you have completed your alignment you may want to pay attention to your struts and shock dampening performance. If you start to feel the steering wheel move side to side when going over bumps or pot holes you may have excessive spring travel because your new springs may not work in unison with struts / shocks. Different spring rates.

I hope this helps you a little.